I thought that this was a good idea as I would be less likely to confuse myself whilst figuring out each measurement and I could focus on one piece a lot easier.
After I had done this, I spent a while trying to guess the measurements and angles of this chair. To start with, I decided that the back of the chair (green, 1,2,3) would be just shorter than a size of A4 paper. I drew this down on a piece of paper and then decided on the width of the pieces, 4cm. I chose this as to me, it looked the right width to go with the height of the pieces. From this I figured out all of the other pieces, which was quite easy as I were only focusing on one at a time. I drew these into my sketchbook, but in a smaller scale so that they would all fit onto one page. On this page I then wrote down the angles that each of the joining pieces would be at, so that it was all clear and all the measurements were together and easy to read.
After this, I made a couple of pages 'fold out' of my sketchbook, by gluing a piece of black card onto the top of the next page and folding it. On these, I cut out the sizes of each individual piece of the chair at the right size and stuck them on. Making sure that I numbered each one and included measurements. This was so that It would be easier when it came to making it in the workshop, as the measurements would be ready and done, and I could compare the pieces once I had cut them to the sizes they should be in my sketchbook.
After doing all of this, I was then able to go into the 3D workshop and make my mini Marquette. To start off the whole process, I cut a strip of MDF 4cm wide, this was because quite a lot of the individual pieces were 4cm and it would be quicker to cut one large piece of 4cm than cut each individual piece separately. After this, I cut the length of each piece from this strip, giving me 6 pieces already cut out, leaving only one square left to do. After cutting out this square, I was ready to sand down these pieces. To do this in a quick way, I used the disk sander and sanded down to the lines I had previously marked- the correct size that the MDF should be. Because I used the disk sander, I didn't have to sand it again by hand as it was already smooth enough for the next step.
Two pieces of this design had 45 degrees angles. To cut these, I had to mark them out on the side of the wood, cut them out sideways and then sand them. Sanding these two edges would be easy, as all I had to do was adjust the bed on the disk sander bed and sand them. I had to ensure that the new angle was precisely 45 degrees or it would mess up the angles, making it so they wouldn't fit exactly together.
After I thought that my pieces were sanded enough, I then had to think about how I was going to stick them together. I decided that I was going to glue them together, but I was also going to put metal rods into the pieces so that it would be a lot stronger than just using glue. To do this, I carefully marked out where I would be gluing the pieces, I then hammered one or two pins, depending on the size, into where the pieces would be joining. I cut these pins down so there was a very little amount protruding out of the wood for accuracy. I then had to push the joining piece onto where it would join, pushing the pins into the other side of the wood. I then split them apart, and marked where the pins had made a dent into the wood. I then removed the pins, and drilled a hole 3mil deep where I had marked it. After this, I had to cut a piece of metal tubing, and put them into the holes, pushing them in as far as I could, I then attached the pieces by slotting the metal rod into the joining piece. Doing this was also good as I could have a dry run to make sure that all the pieces fitted correctly. I repeated this process with all the pieces that would be glued together.
Once this was all done, and I did the dry run of joining them all together to ensure they fit correctly, was then able to properly glue them.
Because I wanted my model to be as strong as possible, I thought that clamping my work while it dried would be the best idea. Although this would be theoretically the best thing to do, the clamps that were available wouldn't physically work, as they would move some of the difficult joins out of place. To overcome this, my tutor and I decided that we were going to use fixed pieces of wood on a board to use as a clamp. To do this, we had to hold the join onto a flat piece of MDF, then drilled extra pieces of MDF onto it, securing the join, as if it were a clamp. This worked well as none of the joins moved and the glue set really strong, just how I wanted.
After waiting overnight until the glue was set properly, I could paint my work. I opted to paint my design in the colors that I colored the pieces on the original photograph that I was given. I painted one layer of paint, then sanded back over it and re-painted, to try and get my paint to feel as smooth as possible adding to the overall effect of the piece.
I think that the main thing that I could work back into on this piece, or done better was the painting. I feel as if I rushed it a little just so I could get it done and move onto more work. I could always amend this, as I can rework into it further on in the project, which I plan to do.
Overall, I am very pleased with how this chair turned out, there was nothing that I think went wrong, the whole process of making it went smoothly and I am very proud of this outcome.
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